A spice bag can take several forms, but this blend includes a sautee of french fries, onions, peppers and chicken tenders. Photo by Kevin O’Donnell.
What do California sushi rolls, fajitas and Cuban sandwiches have in common?
They were all invented in the United States by immigrant or border communities, combining the flavors and cooking styles of multiple cultures to create something unique.
Ireland, like the United States, is a country of immigrants, who represent about 12% of the Irish population as of 2022, according to the country’s Central Statistics Office, compared to 14.3% of the U.S. population in 2023, according to the Migration Policy Institute. And just like they have done in the United States, these immigrant communities in Ireland have found ways to merge their own culture with that of their new home.
The summer between my junior and senior year of college, I worked an internship at a university in Dublin, Ireland. There, I met my partner of two and a half years, a born-and-raised Dubliner named Scott (O’Brien, if you can believe it).
Eleanor Corbin, age 21 in 2023, in Dublin, Ireland, at 3 am, spice bag (box) in hand. Submitted.
Contents of said spice box. Photo by Eleanor Corbin.
He introduced me to my favorite junk food in the world, spice bags – an addictive combination of thick-cut fries (chips) and fried chicken tossed with sauteed vegetables and a salty, umami, sometimes spicy seasoning mix, all wrapped up in a paper bag.
According to the Irish Times, this dish was created in the mid 2000s at Chinese takeaway shops, often owned by immigrant families, as a uniquely Irish-Chinese invention. In the decades since, the spice bag has become a cultural phenomenon and a staple at most Chinese restaurants in Ireland.
In my experience, and in Scott’s professional opinion, there’s no one right way to make a spice bag. Many restaurants have their own spice and veggie blends. Some spots shred their fried chicken, while others slice it into bite-sized pieces or fry it as small, bite-sized tenders (goujons). Some even include additional protein, like chicken meatballs.
The final touch is to drop in the mix of spices and shake it up in the bag. Photo by Kevin O’Donnell.
However the dish is modified, the combination of carbs and crispiness is unbeatable, and I have many fond memories of carrying a grease-soaked bag through the streets of Dublin.
So this St. Patrick’s Day, ditch the corned beef hash for this proper Irish street food and give this recipe a try.
Recipe
Yields roughly 4 servings
Ingredients
• 1 bag of frozen fries
• 1 bag of frozen fried chicken
• ½ yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 1 bell pepper (red, orange or yellow), thinly sliced
• 1 red chile (optional), thinly sliced, seeds removed if desired
• 4 Tbsp sesame oil
• 4 Tbsp of spice mix (this will make a bit extra, which you can store in a dry area for later use):
• 2 Tbsp Chinese five spice
• 2 Tbsp granulated sugar
• 2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp garlic powder
• 1 tsp onion powder
• 1 tsp coriander
• 1 tsp white pepper
• 1 tsp MSG (optional)
• ½ tsp cardamom or cinnamon
• ½ tsp ground ginger
• 4 paper lunch bags (optional)
Instructions:
Cook fries and chicken according to instructions on the bag. If your chicken isn’t bite-sized, I recommend slicing it up after it comes out of the oven/air fryer.
Meanwhile, add spice mix ingredients to a small bowl. Stir to combine.
In a large pan over medium heat, heat sesame oil until it starts to shimmer. Add onion, bell pepper and chile (if using). Saute until the veggies begin to get soft.
Add chicken and fries to the pan, giving everything a good turn to coat in the oil and veggies. Remove from heat.
Divide chicken and fries between lunch bags (if using) and sprinkle a tablespoon of spice mix in each bag, rolling it up, then shaking to coat everything in the seasoning. If you don’t want to use a bag, you can toss everything together in a large bowl.
Enjoy! And sláinte (an Irish toast to health).