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Sandwich Shop

Reservation for One: Panino Divino

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All photos by Aaron Leimkuehler

Kansas City, meet your latest bread obsession: Italian schiacciata, baked in-house throughout the day courtesy of Panino Divino, the Florence-inspired sandwich shop and wine bar that has opened at 1721 West 39th Street. It’s served straight from the oven, ready to hold layers of Italian meats, cheeses, and house-made spreads in craveable sandwiches you won’t soon forget.

Joe Amigoni, winemaker and co-owner of Amigoni Urban Winery with his mother, Kerry Amigoni, found inspiration for Panino Divino during frequent trips his family made to Florence, where simple food, quality wine, and fresh-from-the-oven bread are baked into daily life. Located in the former Gilhouly’s space near the University of Kansas Medical Center, the shop brings a taste of Tuscany to one of Midtown’s beloved restaurant corridors.

Guests can settle in at the intimate bar with a sandwich and a glass of Amigoni wine.

Inside, the restaurant is a wide departure from the dark dive bar that preceded it. Some surprisingly beautiful bones were revealed beneath its tired, old trappings. Original terrazzo floors were there all along and give the room a polished, timeworn character, while the red brick walls uncovered behind the former bar add warmth and texture. The kitchen now occupies most of the compact interior, leaving only a handful of tables scattered around the perimeter. Fortunately, the outdoor patio provides much-needed additional seating, along with direct access to Panino Divino’s charming walk-up wine window. Ring the bell and order a glass of Amigoni wine (a glass of still, not sparkling, rosé made from cabernet franc grapes is a favorite of mine) or a spritz made with Amigoni bubbly. The drink is passed through the small opening, an experience that brings one of Florence’s most delightful traditions to West 39th Street.

Schiacciata is the foundation of every sandwich here. It resembles focaccia, but it’s lighter and thinner. Baked fresh in-house, the olive oil-rich bread has a crisp, golden top and a soft, airy center. It should crackle slightly with each bite before giving way to a pillowy crumb sturdy enough to contain generous layers of Italian meats, cheeses, vegetables, and creamy spreads. It scratches that itch for bread that holds up to its fillings yet still yields when you bite into it.

The La Pistacchiosa sandwich pairs ribbons of mortadella with whipped ricotta and pistachio creams, crushed pistachios, hot honey, and fresh arugula.

Sandwiches at Panino Divino are available in two sizes—classico and grande. To eliminate guesswork, the employee working the register pointed to two wooden blocks on the counter representing each size. The finished sandwiches arrived looking remarkably close to those models. The classico makes a substantial lunch, while the massive grande could easily feed two people, or provide dinner followed by a very satisfying lunch the next day.

I ordered the That’s Amore sandwich in the classico size, and it delivered exactly the kind of savory excess its name promises. Salty pink ribbons of prosciutto were folded over a generous schmear of burrata. Truffle cream added a punch to the delicate creaminess of the cheese, resulting in an earthy, woodsy richness without overwhelming the sandwich. A handful of fresh arugula supplied a peppery, grassy snap. Together, the ingredients hit all the right notes. It was crisp and creamy, salty and earthy, indulgent yet balanced.

The La Rustica is Panino Divino’s version of a classic Italian combination, layering prosciutto with juicy tomato slices, milky fresh mozzarella, and fragrant basil. A drizzle of balsamic glaze threads sweetness and acidity through every bite, sharpening the umami of the tomatoes and cutting through the richness of the cheese. It tastes like a caprese salad tucked inside warm, olive oil-slicked bread, with prosciutto adding a pleasantly salty backbone.

The Big Bing lives up to its name with layers of salami, capocollo, provolone, tomato, and spicy Calabrian chile mayo.

For those who prefer more heat, Il Piccante is a full-throttle Italian meat bomb. Layers of spicy salumi and soppressata mingle with crunchy, tangy giardiniera, fresh mozzarella, pesto cream, and arugula. A final drizzle of hot honey rounds out the sharper edges. Hot honey has become an overused finishing touch on menus lately, appearing in places where it is neither needed nor wanted, but here it earns its place. Its floral sweetness tempers the chile heat and vinegar bite of the giardiniera while bringing out the warm spices in the cured meats.

Sandwiches range from $13 for the classico to $20 for a grande, with discounts offered to nearby healthcare workers. Chips are currently the primary side option, though the menu would benefit from one or two lighter additions to accompany such generously stuffed sandwiches.

Left: Panino Divino’s compact dining room keeps seating intimate, with tables tucked around the perimeter of the bustling kitchen. Right: Once hidden, the exposed red brick now provides a warm backdrop for Panino Divino’s compact dining space.

Guests order sandwiches at the kitchen counter, while wine and cocktails are available from the small indoor bar or through the wine window. This division keeps the operation moving during the lunch rush while allowing those who arrive later in the day to settle in with a drink and linger on the patio.

Panino Divino taps into Kansas City’s current appetite for ambitious sandwich shops while giving the format a distinct point of view. With lines forming at lunch and the walk-up wine window bringing new energy in the evening, Amigoni appears to be finding his footing in the restaurant business. Panino Divino brings together fresh bread, bold Italian flavors, and locally made wine in a space that feels casual, convivial, and unmistakably inspired by Florence. It is a small bite of Italy right here on 39th Street.

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