STOCK PHOTO
My last column delved into the so-called “rules” about how to pair wines with various types of food and cuisines and how breaking those rules can lead us to new culinary experiences and discoveries. It’s an extensive (and sometimes controversial) topic, so I decided to seek out some expert advice.
Celebrity chef Michael Mina recently opened a new Florida restaurant called Acqua Bistecca in Bonita Springs. I was invited to sit down with the executive chef and sommelier to discuss their experiences and perspectives about how they create their gourmet combinations and pairings.
Executive Chef Jim O’Connor trained at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. He and Sommelier Eric Gaboury really opened my eyes about this fascinating topic. “Our cuisine is primarily northern Italian,” says O’Connor, “so Eric and I lean towards Barolos and other reds from that region.” Barolos are a bit less tannic than wines from regions like Chianti, but the tannins help to “calm down” the rich flavors of his creations.
Both experts note that in the Florida’s warm climate, the structure of Barolo, which is made from the Nebbiolo grape, sets off the flavors of the cuisine in a more subtle and satisfying way.
The restaurant has a wood-fired kitchen and O’Connor makes his own pasta, but likes combinations that are a bit surprising. “We do a Hamachi tuna crudo with chili crisp,” he tells me, “and I like to pair it with a wine like Frog’s Leap Chardonnay.” Talk about surprising.
Gaboury, who earned his certification through the prestigious Court of Master Sommeliers, agrees, but adds that there are other considerations that go beyond what’s on the plate and in the glass.
“I think about the guests and the occasion for the dinner,” he notes. “Who are we with? Are we celebrating some event?” He also can take a bit of an unorthodox approach, pairing the cuisine with an unexpected Chateauneuf du Pape. O’Connor’s preference is sometimes a white Burgundy.
Gaboury and O’Connor agree that there are basically two approaches to food and wine pairing: the complementary approach, where the flavors and textures of the wine match those of the food, and the opposites attract method, where, for example, a sweet wine might be served with a salty type of food.
“Eric brings a glass of something into the kitchen,” O’Connor said, “and we brainstorm. Sure, we think about the ‘rules’ of pairing, but we also agree that personal preference is the most important consideration.” Gaboury chimes in, “We drink what we like.”
Great idea, and my thanks to both experts for the time they spent with me. Now, you can spend your time discovering some new recommendations from Italy and beyond.
Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2021 ($34) A full-bodied, richly-colored wine that will complement traditional Italian fare, with a nose of black cherry and rich berry fruit flavors. Interesting blend of 90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo & Colorino. Wine Whisperer rating on a scale of 100: WW 93
San Felice La Pieve Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2021 ($50) – Another intense ruby-red creation, with complex flavors of violets, black cherry, and notes of tobacco and licorice. Well-integrated tannins and a good balance of acidity. The Gran Selezione designation is relatively new in Chianti, created in 2014, and indicates the highest quality wines in this historic region. Only about 5% of all Chianti wines have earned this ranking. WW 96
Penfold’s Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 704 Napa 2022 ($50) – Australia’s historic winery has set up shop in California and started producing wines in their signature hearty style. This offering is a bit on the sweet side with a concentrated core of rich black berry and cassis, nicely balanced with well-integrated tannins. There’s a hint of chocolate on the long, silky finish. WW 95
Monsanto Nemo Cabernet Sauvignon Tuscany 2019 ($60) – We don’t often think about this historic Italian region producing a varietal like Cabernet, but this is an interesting discovery. Made in a true international style, this wine is aged for 18 months in new French oak, and an additional 12 months in bottle. This leads to a well-integrated palate of rich black fruit, cassis, and vanilla. It’s intensely concentrated and will pair with the heartiest cuisine, like stews, and rich pasta entrees. If you like your reds big and bold, this is for you. WW 93
Jerry Greenfield is the Wine Whisperer, a wine journalist, consultant, and educator. His books, “Ask the Wine Whisperer” and “Secrets of the Wine Whisperer” are available on Amazon.
