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Find classic Mexican dishes, inventive cocktails, and Jell-O shots on Condesa’s new brunch menu

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Brandon Ristaino and Misty Orman are no strangers to traveling the world in search of savory food and creative beverages. Usually, after some on-site “R and D” (research and development), Ristaino said they return home with a plethora of inspiration that they seek to incorporate into their Central Coast culinary ventures. 

However, on a recent cross-country trip, the business owners were delighted to find one of their new signature concepts featured on another bar’s menu. While speaking with New Times, the couple stood with a view of the Washington Monument. The night before, they’d patronized Silver Lyan in Washington, D.C.

“Right on the menu were like six different Jell-O shot options, real kind of fancied up,” Ristaino said. “For Misty and I—we love Jell-O shots—and it makes a lot of sense to have them for brunch.”

Brunch it up
Visit Condesa at 1491 Monterey St. in San Luis Obispo every day between 4 and 11 p.m. Brunch is served on the weekends from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Follow along online at condesabarslo.com or on Instagram @condesabarslo.

Their restaurant in San Luis Obispo, Condesa, soft launched its weekend morning offerings earlier this summer. And, sure enough, a passionfruit margarita Jell-O shot is one star of the show.

Condesa’s vibe was inspired by the owners’ trip to Mexico City and their love for the Bohemian neighborhood of the same name. The bar and eatery opened on Monterey Street last year.

Already known for tequila- and rum-forward cocktails, adding a margarita Jell-O shot wasn’t out of left field, especially because Ristaino feels the shots are having a revival.

“It’s hard not to have fun with Jell-O shots, but there’s been an evolution in quality,” he said.

Orman agreed. She said she was excited to add them to Condesa’s brunch list to show people a different side of the stereotypically “sugary, college” slurps.

WHY NOT? Condesa owners Misty Orman and Brandon Ristaino believe brunch is as good a time as any for a Jell-O shot. With all of the layered flavors of a regular cocktail, their classy passionfruit margarita bite is served on a wooden spoon. Credit: COURTESY PHOTO BY KELLEY WILLIAMS

“Ours, when you taste it, you really have layers of flavors,” Orman said. “It tastes like a cocktail in a Jell-O shot form, and that was really fun to R and D. I just think it’s one of those things that if you’re having brunch, why not get one?”

Condesa serves it on a small wooden spoon, perfect to cheers with the whole table before or after the meal, she added. It finishes with a hint of chipotle spice and Tajín on top. 

Though perhaps the most striking on the list, Jell-O shots aren’t the only boozy item that Condesa spruced up. 

“There’s a classic cocktail that kind of sucks called the Tequila Sunrise,” Ristaino said. “It has flabby orange juice in there, nasty grenadine, tequila. It’s boring.”

He and Orman first presented the Tequila Sunrise 2.0 at their Santa Barbara bar called Shaker Mill and have since brought a “more brunch appropriate” version north to Condesa, Ristaino said. It’s like sipping a cross between a Tequila Sunrise and a French 75 because of the sparkling wine base.

Team members at Condesa squeeze juices fresh every day and make all the cordials in-house, too, which bartenders can turn into a “delicious” mocktail, Orman added.

The food items, just like drinks, are fit to share. Ristaino wants brunch at Condesa to be leisurely.

“It tends to be a communal thing, so I would say kick back and relax, take the time, do it in a few waves,” he said. “Do a little snack, then you work your way into a larger dish or two. But really, it’s just meant to be a pleasurable, slow experience.”

TO SHARE, OR ALL FOR YOURSELF Chilaquiles star on the new brunch menu at Condesa along with other staples like huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, and tostadas. Credit: COURTESY PHOTO BY KELLEY WILLIAMS

One of Ristaino’s highlights is the huevos rancheros plate, layered with shredded chicken, cheese, mole oaxaqueño, toasted sesame seeds, and cilantro. He also recommends chilaquiles, a mountain of eggs, frijoles norteños, avocado, onion, crema, cilantro, and salsa roja. 

“The chilaquiles is my favorite, but if I’m not in the mood for a heavy meal, I love that you can just start with the fresh guacamole and the ceviche,” Orman said. “It’s so clean and bright, and it’s one of my favorite things.”

She suggested that first-timers share plates so the whole table can get a sample of everything. The owner is celiac and often can’t find safe brunch options, so at Condesa, she made it a point to offer a variety of gluten-free dishes.

“Most of our menu is gluten free, or it can be made gluten free. The only thing I believe that isn’t is our burritos,” Orman explained. “Chef spent time sourcing quality ingredients, so each thing, really it tastes like a farm-to-table kind of Mexican brunch, which I don’t think is as common.”

THE MORNING AFTER Guests choose between tequila, mezcal, or vodka with their Bloody Mary, stirred with Condesa’s house mix. Credit: COURTESY PHOTO BY KELLEY WILLIAMS

While Condesa employees and their brunch crowd settle into the restaurant’s new schedule, Orman and Ristaino are already pondering the next launch. 

Also inspired by a visit to a bar during their recent Washington, D.C., vacation, they’re toying with the option of a bottomless espresso martini for their Carajillo.

When the pair saw it on the menu, Ristaino said they looked at each other and asked, “Why are we not doing this?” But after all that fun, he encourages guests to take an Uber home. 

“I don’t think the espresso martini moment is ending any time soon,” Orman said. “It’s all over TikTok, all over everything. I mean, I love that drink. … It’s definitely having its moment, and it’s going strong.” ∆ 

Staff Writer Madison White is known to enjoy brunch. Reach her at mwhite@santamariasun.com.

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