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In a dimly lit food court in an aged Fortitude Valley building largely abandoned by businesses, office workers form a long line for a humble sandwich.
And now, after 30 years of feeding the Valley, Fresh to Go is closing up shop as the owners prepare to retire.
The concept is simple yet classic, and it keeps cult-like customers queueing day after day for more. Choose your bread, meat and salads from the bain-marie, all lovingly prepared by couple He Ming Wang and Li Hua Ma.
He Ming Wang and Li Hua Ma have been feeding Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley for 30 years.Dean Swindell
Fresh to Go is a far cry from the trending, “Insta-worthy”, chef-led sandwich shops this masthead typically features.
It feels like stepping back in time, from the decor to the prices. A salad sandwich starts at just $4.40. A blueberry muffin? Just $2.50.
They have been doing this for decades, originally in the Valley Metro station and for the past 13 years at this spot in McWhirters.
Fresh to Go’s sandwiches are stacked with salad.Dean Swindell
The McWhirters building in Fortitude Valley is quiet before Fresh to Go’s lunchtime rush.Dean Swindell
The store doesn’t have a Google listing let alone a social media following, yet every day the line stretches out the door.
The couple serves about 100 customers each day and the most popular offering – roast pork and crackling – almost always sells out before midday.
Fresh to Go’s signature roast pork that keeps Brisbane customers coming back for more.Dean Swindell
They remember nearly every customer’s order, down to whether they like butter and their salad preferences.
“They come in every day, and they never change [their order]. Every day [is] the same, that’s the way I know,” He Ming said.
Fresh to Go has been in Fortitude Valley’s McWhirters building for more than 13 years.Dean Swindell
The pair begin every day at their Valley store before 5am to prepare and cook 14 kilograms of pork. They finish about 3pm, but the work doesn’t end there.
After they close, they go shopping for ingredients to prepare for the next day’s rush.
Justin Phillips, who works at nearby Duncan Street, has been getting a sandwich from Fresh to Go three to four times a week for the past three years.
The couple remember every detail of their regular customers’ sandwich orders.Dean Swindell
“They remember everyone’s order to the point where if I’m on a phone call, I show up, and they’ll just make my sandwich, hand the eftpos machine for me to pay, and hand it to me without saying a single word.
“It’s phenomenal.”
Much to Phillips’ joy, the couple refer to him as “handsome man”, but he says it’s definitely the sandwich that keeps him coming back.
His usual order of Turkish bread with butter, roast pork, gravy, crackling, carrot, lettuce, cheese, tomato, salt and pepper, sets him back about $9.
The Valley’s main drag is well known for colourful characters and He Ming has seen it all.
The McWhirters building in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley.Dean Swindell
“Before the Valley was very good. I remember before we had [the] Optus [shop] over there and the Brisbane City Council teaching building – now, everything move.
“The Valley situation is getting worse … It makes people feel scared but we’re not. We know everyone, we even know some drug dealers.”
This week they told Phillips they would close for good on November 19, and while he’s glad the couple are getting some well-deserved rest, he doesn’t know what he will do without his lunch ritual.
Regulars at Fresh to Go will miss the couple’s friendly faces and fresh sandwiches.Dean Swindell
“It’s extremely sad. I don’t know where I’m going to eat now in the Valley,” he said.
Duncan Street worker and loyal Fresh to Go diner Alec McFadden shares that sentiment.
“I was very sad [to hear of the shop’s closure] but I’m happy for them to retire.
“The sandwiches are so good, and they’re so cheap,” he said.
“I won’t be able to find anywhere in the Valley for under $10 for lunch.”
The melancholy is mutual. He Ming said the purpose of their store was always to “make friends, not profit”.
He Ming Wang and Li Hua Ma are the only employees at the Fortitude Valley sandwich spot.Dean Swindell
Regular customers often encourage the couple to increase their prices. Besides a 20¢ increase last year, the pricing has stayed essentially the same.
“Customer happy, we happy. Money [is] not important to us,” he said.
“[I want to] say thank you to our good customer. Thank you for their support of us for many, many years. I’ll miss them.”
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