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Mexican Food

This Mission restaurant took a decade to open. The fish taco was worth the wait

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Courtney Fujita and Abe Nuñez shepherded Chicano Nuevo through its years-long pop-up phase to full restaurant. | Source: Alexa Treviño for SF Standard

For subscribersPublished Aug. 20, 2026at6:00am

Eat Here Now is a first look at some of the newest, hottest restaurants around – the ones we think are worth visiting. We dine once, serve forth our thoughts, and let you take it from there.

If not for the generous dusting of ash all over the alternating red-and-green slices of radish and cucumber, the kanpachi tostada at Chicano Nuevo (opens in new tab) could have passed for an elaborate apple galette.

The labor-intensive riot of color and flavor was anything but sweet, though. In fact, it was almost searingly spicy from the plentiful serrano pepper. Avocado, fried capers, and pickled onion just barely held the heat in check, though amid all that, the kanpachi, lightly cured in a house-made umami sauce, was on the verge of being overshadowed. Thankfully, that strongly alkaline ash was there to bring everything into balance. Elaborate without being persnickety, and very pretty to look at, it’s one of the best things I’ve eaten all year. 

A dark, round tortilla topped with creamy sauce, avocado, orange cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced radishes, and a halved lime on a black textured plate.The kanpachi crudo may be the most visually stunning dish.A taco with a corn tortilla holds crispy fried fish, shredded purple cabbage, red pickled peppers, and chopped green herbs.Núñez calls Chicano Nuevo a “fish taco pop-up with a tasting menu.”​

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