Burlington, Vermont, may be the smallest “largest city” of any U.S. state, but in fall it packs an impressive amount into a city of fewer than 50,000 people.
Set between Lake Champlain and the Green Mountains, Burlington makes an easy base for Vermont’s legendary foliage season. By October, the surrounding hills turn red, orange and gold, while the lakefront gives you a completely different view of the changing leaves.
But the foliage is only part of why I keep coming back.
Lake Champlain has its own legendary monster, Champ, Vermont’s answer to the Loch Ness Monster. Ben & Jerry’s got its start here in a converted gas station. Downtown, you can order a pickle martini and then wander Church Street Marketplace, a pedestrianized stretch inspired by Copenhagen’s StrĆøget.
It is an unexpectedly fun mix of classic New England fall scenery, excellent food and just enough weirdness to keep things interesting.
Burlington in fall: leaf peeping and lake views
A view of Lake Champlain from the Wild Rose, one of the classic wooden sloops operated by Whistling Man Schooner Company.
(Becca Blond)
Autumn is when Burlington shines brightest. From late September through mid-October, the hillsides around Lake Champlain transform into a patchwork of crimson, gold, and burnt orange. One of the most memorable ways to take in the view is on the water with Whistling Man Schooner Company. Their two-hour BYO cruises aboard the traditional wooden sloops, Friend Ship and Wild Rose, offer a completely different perspective on the season. Watching the sun catch the leaves along the shoreline while the Adirondacks loom in the distance is a beautiful experience.
If you’d like to explore by car, Burlington makes day trips easy. Head forty-five minutes east to Stowe and Smugglers’ Notch, where winding roads cut through mountain passes lined with fiery maples. South of town, the Mad River Valley is characterized by small villages, covered bridges, and breathtaking views along Route 100.
Or cross north into the Lake Champlain Islands, where the foliage reflects off the water and quiet roads lead past apple orchards and farm stands. Wherever you go, Burlington works well as a base ā close enough to reach the mountains in under an hour, but with plenty to do back in town once the drive is over.
Where to stay in Burlington, Vermont
The lobby at Hotel Vermont blends rustic wood and stone with modern design, creating a welcoming space to relax by the fire or gather before dinner at Juniper.
(Hotel Vermont)
Burlington has plenty of charm on its own, but Hotel Vermont elevates the experience. This independent boutique hotel feels rooted in place, from the granite and reclaimed wood in its lobby to the flannel blankets folded at the foot of each bed. Even the bath products are locally made. It’s the kind of detail that makes the hotel feel distinctly Vermont rather than just another stop in New England.
The location makes exploring easy. Step outside and you’re minutes from Lake Champlain, the Church Street Marketplace, and some of the city’s best restaurants and breweries. Back inside, the hotel doubles as a social hub. Juniper, its house restaurant, serves creative, farm-to-table dishes alongside craft cocktails, including the much-talked-about Pickle Martini. In the colder months, guests gravitate to the lobby fireplace, while summer stays mean grabbing one of the hotel’s bikes for a ride along the waterfront.
For travelers who like their hotel dollars to do more, the property also offers Vermont Parks Forever rooms, with a portion of proceeds going to Vermont Parks Forever, the nonprofit partner of the state’s park system.Ā
And if you’re traveling with a pet, Hotel Vermont rolls out the welcome mat. When I stayed with my pup Poppy, the staff greeted her like family, and we quickly discovered Burlington’s dog-friendly side together ā from brewery patios to a few different flavors of dog ice-cream at Ben and Jerry’s.
Eat and drink your way through Burlington
A seasonal clam dish at Frankie’s, a Burlington restaurant that highlights Vermont’s farm-to-table flavors.
(Becca Blond)
Burlington’s food scene has range: casual, creative spots sit comfortably alongside refined farm-to-table restaurants. I was surprised by how diverse the food scene was, considering Burlington’s small town size.Ā
For breakfast, locals crowd into The CafĆ© HOT, a downtown favorite best known for its cult-favorite the “number 8, chicken fried sandwich” ā made with a battered fried egg and layered with pickled zucchini, tartar sauce, cabbage, and greens. The menu is entirely vegetarian, offering a variety of vegan meat options that are rich in flavor and texture, yet satisfying even the most die-hard meat eaters.
I loved Frankie’s for dinner. Here, Vermont’s seasonal bounty is showcased in dishes on a menu that changes nightly, yet remains focused on fresh, regional ingredients. When I was there, I tried a flavor-packed little neck clam appetizer (pictured above) followed by a tasty swordfish main.
Beer is another part of Burlington’s DNA. Zero Gravity, Switchback, and Foam Brewers all pour inventive local brews, with Foam’s waterfront location adding live music and food trucks into the mix. These taprooms feel more like neighborhood gathering spots than tourist stops, and they’re a good place to end an afternoon walk.
No visit is complete without a maple creemee, Vermont’s extra-rich twist on soft serve. Order one along the waterfront and you’ll see why it’s a ritual for locals and visitors alike.
Arts, culture, and quirky Burlington history
Street performers draw a crowd at Church Street Marketplace, the pedestrian hub of Burlington lined with shops, cafƩs, and local art.
(Becca Blond)
Burlington’s compact downtown is anchored by Church Street Marketplace, a four-block pedestrian zone modeled after Copenhagen’s StrĆøget. It’s the city’s social hub ā a place where you can shop at local boutiques, be entertained by buskers, and sit at a cafĆ© watching college students, families, and travelers mingle.Ā
Just off Church Street, the Burlington City Arts Center showcases contemporary exhibitions. At the same time, the Fleming Museum of Art, situated on the University of Vermont campus, boasts a diverse collection that spans from African masks to American landscape paintings. In the South End, old warehouses along Pine Street have been transformed into studios and galleries, fueling the city’s creative reputation.
That reputation has deep roots. The LumiĆØre brothers, pioneers of cinema and color photography, once operated their North American headquarters here, just off Pine Street. Burlington also has a knack for quirks: it hosted the world’s first international hockey game in 1886 (the Canadians won, 3ā0), and for 18 days in 1998, Lake Champlain was officially considered a Great Lake, a designation that was rescinded. The lake is also home to “Champ,” Burlington’s own Loch Nessāstyle monster, with hundreds of reported sightings over the years.
Why Burlington is worth the trip
What makes Burlington special is the amount it offers in such a compact package. It boasts the scenery ā mountains, lake views, and fiery foliage ā but also the food, art, and character of a much larger city. You can spend the morning sailing on Lake Champlain, the afternoon wandering galleries or brewery patios, and the evening listening to live music after a dinner that showcases Vermont’s best ingredients. Add in the history, the quirks, and the friendliness (toward visitors and dogs alike), and the city feels both memorable and welcoming.
Where you stay matters, too. Hotel Vermont isn’t just convenient ā it reflects the very things that make Burlington what it is: rooted in place, creative, and easygoing. Whether you’re here in peak foliage season, chasing powder at nearby ski resorts, or savoring a maple creemee in the summer sun, the hotel makes an ideal base for exploring the city and the state around it.
Burlington may be the smallest largest city in the country, but it leaves a big impression ā one that lingers long after the last leaf has fallen or the last scoop of ice cream has melted.
